Engelberg and Lucerne

How many times in my life will I turn around and go. . . I just had a shower in the Swiss Alps? Yeah. That happened.

We count down as we cross the border from France to Switzerland. Before this, I've never crossed country borders via road, so this is quite a moment for me. Did you know that in Switzerland, most of the tunnels are curved so that in the olden days, enemies would not have been able to fire cannons through?

We reach Engelberg in the evening, and I breathe in the crisp mountain air. Switzerland feels pure. We are in a ski lodge (called Ski Lodge Engelberg – how very inventive) at the foothills of Mt. Titlis, and I'm giddy with excitement. Switzerland is one of the reasons I booked the tour (the other being Venice), and I've been wanting to visit ever since I saw it in an old Heidi anime.

Our hotel room is very spacious, and every single window gives us generous views of the Alps. The wifi is waaay better than Paris (you can actually stream videos). They have left us chocolate. Our beds are soft, my mind foggy from the shower, and belly full of unidentified salad food and decadent chocolate mousse. It is time for bed.

After a breakfast of the thickest whipped cream and marmalade on a fat slice of the softest bread, we are a little late getting ready, and run to catch up with the group for a trip up Mt. Titlis. This is a free day, and the Titlis excursion is an optional activity. It is raining in Engelberg, and snowing up the mountain. We can't see a thing, which is just as well given my fear of heights. We slip in the ice caves and we tread on the highest suspension bridge in Europe. The air bites as we walk – I struggle – to the other side of the caves. I pose with a Bollywood movie cutout, and about four different Asian women grab my hand and ask for a photo. It is hilarious, and I feel like a celebrity.

Sandar, Thu Thu (new Topdeck friends) and I have a business proposition. We want to bring flavoured syrup up the mountain and sell snow cones. The snow is – wait for it – delicious. I should know; I have had about five mouthfuls by now. After more frolicking, singing, making snow angels and paying for possibly the most expensive lunch I've had, we make our way down the mountain.

Engelberg is snuggled high up in the Swiss Alps and it is charming, but small and sleepy. We still have half the day left, so Libby and I decide to take the train down to Lucerne. The train ticket is not cheap, but completely worth it as the views are gorgeous. Lucerne is what I imagine east Europe, or Germany to look like.

We only have a couple of hours, so we look around the town centre, and then it's an hour long ride back to Engelberg. We make it in time for dinner, which is an incredibly rich cheese fondue. I stuff my face because I think that's all we're getting, and then comes the main dish, the richest, creamiest bestestest pasta I have ever had. If I could marry food, I'd marry this pasta, it is flipping AMAZING.

Italy, your move.

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